Omega

In 2007 Omega was a route on everyones wish list. Rarely in condition and with a reputation formed from Nick Bullock’s unfortunate ankle snapping fall that seemed to justify its R rating, it was with a bit of intrepidation that I headed in with Andy Benson to the Leschaux hut. As it happened we werent the only ones psyched and a French team came sprinting up the glacier and caught us as we approached the hut. This was less than ideal as the line is a defined gully line that would channel falling ice down it. Come the morning the Frenchies charged off up the glacier in the dark leaving us far behind. I’d had a fever during the week and it started to make itself felt again on the approach so there was no chance of catching the French lads.Going onto a long route was the last thing I wanted as to do in a cold sweat but Andy had limited time so on we went. Luck was in when we got to the foot of the route as the French guys started climbing a wall and we knew the route followed a corner so moving round to the right had us in pole position and Andy launched onwards.  The climbing is sustained and continuously interesting throughout and of a slabby nature so more technical than pumpy.

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