My 5 Favourite Places to Ski in the World – part 2 Patagonia and Chile

In the second week of this five part series we visit some of the finest spots of Patagonia and Chile.

This trip was ten years in the coming for me. Getting the right person, at the right time in the right place proved difficult. I was working on a large engineering project in Brazil that summer and travelled from there to meet Michelle in Bariloche. From there we followed the snow along with many other fellow skiers who we crossed paths with several times in both Argentina and Chile.

The light, wind, ruggedness, red wine, steaks, monkey puzzles and friendly people made this trip one that will guarantee I go back.  Everyone should ski a volcano at some point in their life and the fantastic Frey Refugio comes with its own reputation as a freeride destination.

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Michelle in the vapours and walking between the cauliflowers on Llaima volcano

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Dropping into another sweet run above the Frey hut amongst the granite spires of Patganonia with Bariloche’s lake Rio Negra in the distance

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The volcano Llaima and the beautiful characteristic Monley Puzzle or Auracaria trees

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Skiing on Llaima with moody afternoon light

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Wall art in Bariloche

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Tree warmers?

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Dropping off the back of Cerro Catedral en route to the Frey

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Ross enjoying a fast run into Frey

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Wall art in Pucon

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Quietly contented and very shy

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Villarica and plumes of volcanic vapours

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Summit selfie shot on Villarica

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Michelle on Villarica with an abundance of riming near the crater rim

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Good low angled skiing lower on Villarica with the deep contrast of the volcanic landscape

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Michelle on Llaima volcano and the surrounding landscape

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The Frey hut at sunset with its stunning backdrop

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The Frey hut is nestled below the rock spires with access to a group of valleys providing different skiing options. Its also low enough to escape the worst Patagonian wind which destroys the snow for skiing.

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Ross Hewitt on a line directly above the hut

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Cosy nights at the Frey for enjoying the pizza and wine

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Loads of variety between open slopes, faces and couloirs. We found the best snow at Frey

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Matt Livingstone shredding

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Me shredding

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The road to the Argentinian – Chilean border and the 3700 m volcan Lanin

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Lanin offers 2000 m of vert and has a 1000 m cosmique like couloir from the summit which we were aiming for

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The military concrete hut at 2800 m provides shelter for the night en route up the mountain splitting the climb into 2 days.

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We spent the night with fellow travellers Brodie Leven and Adam Clark who had a faulty gas cylinder and were happy to have our stove to use.  Michelle and myself had travelled to South America without sleeping bags and the ones we borrowed in San Martin were bigger that our packs and pretty cold.

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Dawn hit Lanin as we leave the hut

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Michelle just below the summit

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The stunning contrast between snowcapped peaks and the lakes

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Michelle and myself on the summit above the volcanic and lake district landscape of Chile

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Ross Hewitt skiing the north east couloir of Lanin

Verbier Opening Day

We went over to Verbier for its opening day and enjoyed a fantastic day of endless powder – here is a little edit from the day.  Lets hope it stays cold now! The ski season has got off to an amazing start this year after the last two dry years. I started skiing again on the Midi about a month ago and in the last two weeks Chamonix in particular got a load of snow.

Home Sweet Home

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After nearly six months away from home this year its great to finally be home, wake up in the same bed, catch up with friends and enjoy the Fall in the Alps in the autumn. I love this time of year with the valley being quiet, temperatures better for riding, near perfect friction on the rock, early snows of the winter, first turns…the hardest thing can be deciding what to do! Its especially sweet that he hard work in Wales this summer paid off and past the British Mountains Guides’ summer rock test and will be going to Scotland for the winter test next. At the start of summer I had a bad bike crash when I dropped the front end off a jump a piled my neck into the ground.  There was a lot of heavy crunching in my back and while I spat out bits of broken teeth, my back muscles went into hard spasm stopping me from getting much air in my lungs. It was a pretty scary experience and with my back feeling weird I made a beeline for the emergency room. The doctor was pretty nonchalant about it, monitored my blood pressure for a few hours and released me armed with a paracetamol and the advice that I might be a little sore in the morning. Having played rugby and raced bike downhill for years I’m not unused to taking hard knocks but this was a new level.  A week of not being able to sleep and 3 weeks of complete inactivity had me thinking it was unlikely I’d get into shape for the guides exam. 3 months later and I was starting to move a bit better and not feel like I’d been hit in the back with a sledge hammer, but for a while there were some major doubts about getting over this injury in time! A big thanks goes to Martin Chester who spent a day giving me some great tips during my final preparation for the test. He’s a IFMGA mountain guide and a fantastic performance coach and all round nice guy so check him out at: martinchester.co.uk  Also a big thanks to John Whittaker for being the perfect mock client – hope to see you for some Scottish Winter action!

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Coaching how to fist jam. Photo Martin Chester

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Me leading Shadow Wall. Photo Martin Chester

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John Whittaker seconding. Photo Martin Chester

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Me on Western Rib, Dinas Mot. Photo Martin Chester

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Placing gear on The Chain, a quality crack pitch, Dinas Mot. Photo Martin Chester

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On The Chain. Photo Martin Chester

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John Whittaker belaying me on The Chain. Photo Martin Chester

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John getting the finger locks on The Chain. Photo Martin Chester

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John on the jugs. Photo Martin Chester

 

The following biking photos are from Merlet, my home run.

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And Gietroz with Enrico Mosetti and Beatrice Michelotti (photo credits)

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Then to the Gabarrou route on the triangle with Phil Brugger who is over from Innsbruck to train in the high mountain. Its ultra dry and the crux would be way easier in rock shoes but feels like M6+ right now. Short and sharp.

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And skiing on the normal route of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

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Finally a couple of scenic shots and Michelle at Elevation!

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